How To Sew a “Welt” Pocket

image_4 See that little black rectangle inside the bag?  That’s a little welt pocket.  I made it to fit an iPhone 5.  This tutorial is about how I made this welt pocket and you can make this pocket any size that fits your needs.

Before you begin, determine what fabric the outside of the pocket/the lining of the bag will be (in this case, grey) and what fabric the inside of the pocket will be (in this case, black.)

To start.  I ironed interfacing to the wrong side of the inner pocket fabric (black.)  I didn’t measure a size.  I just made sure that it was wider than the iPhone and when I folded it in half lengthwise, it was longer than the iPhone.

From here, follow these simple steps: Measure 3″ down from the top edge of pocket fabric and draw a line in pen.


Draw a parallel line 1/4″ above and below the line you just drew.


Draw a vertical line 1.5″ in from the outer edge of pocket fabric on both sides.  Draw another verticall line 3/4″ from there on both sides.  Now you have drawn perfect, little rectangular boxes.


Inside those boxes, use the points of reference to draw 2 triangles pointing inward.


Fold both the pocket fabric and the lining fabric in half widthwise to determine the centre midline.  Line up the 2 pieces, right sides together, and pin together.



Now you’re ready to sew.  Sew around the perimeter of the main rectangle you drew.  Around the outer edges, sew with a small stitch length and in the middle sections, sew with a regular stitch length.  (I wrote, on the interfacing, the stitch lengths I used to help explain further.  For the edges, I used a 1.0 stitch length, for the middle section I used a 2.2 stitch length…ignore the inches (“) I wrote next to those numbers…)


With a seam ripper, carefully rip through both layers of fabric following the lines.  You rip along the centre line and out towards the corners.  Be careful to stop at the stitch line.  You don’t want to rip through the stitches you just made.


Turn your work by pushing one layer through the hole you just made.


Press flat.  One side looks like this…


The other looks like this…


Secure fabrics in place by topstitching along the side, bottom and other side of the hole.  Don’t stitch the top side yet.


Now it’s time to make the pocket.  Fold the pocket fabric (black) up towards the top raw edge of the lining fabric (grey.)


When you’ve determined how deep you want your pocket to be, pin in place.  (I determined the size of my pocket by placing the phone inside.)


Remove the phone, and stitch pocket in place along the top of the pocket hole.  (My sewing machine has a function where I can move the needle over.  To sew a straight line, I centred the foot of my sewing machine over the seam but moved the needle a little to the right so that I stitched just a little to the right of the seam like so.)


Now it’s time to close the sides of your pocket.  Move the lining fabric (grey) out of the way and draw two vertical lines down from the edges of where your pocket opening is.


Stitch down the lines and cut away the excess.


And you’re done! (Don’t forget to remove the pin!)


I LOVE this pocket because it looks impressive but is relatively easy to do. If you’d like to see a video about welt pockets, I found a great one here.  The technique in the video makes a more intricate looking pocket than what I did but he does a great job explaining how to do it.  I will definitely give it a try next time.

Here are 2 more examples of welt pockets I made recently on some handmade bags.  I give all credit to my teacher, Marlous.  Learn more about her patterns on a previous post here.

Let me know if you give it a try!

Feel free to follow me on instagram for updates about my sewing a crochet projects (@afriendlikeben).  You’ll see my instagram pics on the left side of this blog page as well.

Thanks for stopping by.  Happy Sewing!



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